Our bicycles have finally been for their MOT. Having sadly missed the summer, they have at least made it in time to see autumn in Munich. And suddenly on the saddle of a bicycle, the radius of discovery extends easily to nearby neighbourhoods. I am not always the most confident cyclist – subconsciously fearing run-ins with trams or dreaded tram-lines and cars who overtake just a little bit too closely. And I am not a seasoned cyclist – struggling to manoeuvre my rather beautiful, but hideously heavy Gazelle Dutch bicycle (all 20kg of it) up and down the basement steps or complaining about my Raynaud suffering hands at the first hint of cooler temperatures. But there is possibly no better way of discovering a city than on a bicycle.The best way to happen upon cute little side streets and remember how to get there again and the best way to have the pleasure of chancing upon new cafes and restaurants, without TripAdvisor explicitly having to send you there.
Elisabethmarkt, in the heart of Schwabing is I assume, well-known to all who come from Munich. But it was my surprise discovery of the weekend.
Being somehow not overly enthused about the much more famous Viktualienmarkt in the city centre, I fell in love with the cosy structure of Elisabethmarkt. Granted, as I arrived on a latish Saturday afternoon, the permanent market stalls were tidying up and packing away, which gave it a slightly deserted and all the more special feel. The mixture of specialist cheese stores, butcher, fishmongers, greengrocers and florists along with cosy cafes and small and unpretentious restaurants waiting to be tested for a post-grocery shopping pick-up, means I can’t wait for it to be Saturday again.